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石家庄二人食--牛肉板面

  • 2026-03-29 21:56:54
石家庄二人食--牛肉板面
我还能最早记忆的牛肉板面摊，应该是2002年的事。
我记忆中的板面，一般都存活在十字路口的马路牙子上，存活在学校门口的树荫下，存活在大车/出租车司机的必经之路上，存活在最需要饱腹感但兜里又不足够吃肉的人群的必经路上。
那时候的板面摊多是夫妻档，男的煮面女的端面，两个人很少交流但是大多操作都行云流水，配合默契。我有的时候很好奇他们是如何在这么多人同时来吃饭的是记住煮多少面的，但是有的老板总是能记清楚差不多五六个人的餐点，除了记清楚大小碗，宽细面，还得记清楚加的配料是什么。
板面的那锅卤料真是神奇，复杂的料在一锅黑红的汤水里滚着，随着锅上氤氲的白烟飘起的是一股带有浓烈辣味的异香，有一种魔力感催促着口水的分泌。锅里除了滚着的辣椒还有豆皮鸡蛋丸子海带，这几样东西炖的时间越长越好，最好是把鸡蛋炖的颜色都变深了，那种最好吃。
最早的板面都是论根卖的。一个透明的箱子里整齐的码着一排排的长条面棍，一个小面棍就是一根面，大碗7根小碗5根，店主一般是把这面棍平铺在案板上，擀面杖三下两下就把它们压成了宽条的板面，最后进锅之前，把擀好的面抓住两头，在案板上摔响了，才算完成板面的仪式。
板面煮的很快，一般就是加一次菜一次凉水，那个菜就是一个编织袋里掏出来的菜，一般都是应季的最便宜的菜，有的可能都不洗，抓一把就进锅了。点一次水以后就算熟了，然后盛到套着塑料袋的碗里。
然后就是浇一勺热汤，放上几个辣椒，当时还会象征性的捞两块小肉块放到最上面。加上自选的卤货，端到低矮的小桌子上。
从鸡精盒子做的筷子篮里抽一双筷子，掰开了刮刮木屑，就算正式开吃。
辣椒是泡透了的好吃，必须把辣味泡没了，把咸味泡进来，才算好吃的辣椒。板面必须是发点绿的，据说是加了绿豆面，这样的面会劲道弹牙。烫呼呼的面条配上卤汤的辣，一般都会把人吃的满头大汗，冬天也不例外。吃的人都会享受这股刺激感在口腔里迸发的感觉。而大口大口的吃完面后，吹一吹上面的油，喝一口最后的汤，是对这家小摊最大的尊重。
来吃饭的人群多数都是中年人，一般以体力劳动为主，千禧年附近的时候，不可否认的是经济的增长，也不可否认的是红利的分化。在那个充满了幻想与法无禁止即自由的时代，有的人能混迹高档场所，有的人则是被迫生活在这些小摊前。这种以碳水为主且盐量超标的东西，注定不是教科书上的健康食品，但是却又最适合普罗大众的胃口，因为结合时间和经济后，这已经是相对的最优解了。
现在的牛肉板面一翻身，已经变成了这个城市的招牌，随着通货膨胀后的价格，已经从最初的1-1.5元涨到了现在的10元左右。城市化的进程也摧毁了多数的小摊，他们都搬进了固定的店里，也算食品行业为城市化交了租税。
当然，也有最后的几家面摊，常年存活在桥洞下，高架桥下。
在城市进入夜晚后，昏暗发黄的灯光下，依旧有那么几个摊，在等着晚归的人。

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000853s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=nowww460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001334s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000631s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000589s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001222s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000500s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001297s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 490837 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000980s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1774795250 WHERE `id` = 490837 [ RunTime:0.010942s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000591s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 490837 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001084s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 490837 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000959s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 490837 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001067s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 490837 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001122s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 490837 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.001710s ]
0.131795s